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In
The Toronto Star test kitchen

Fresh
produce in Chinatown

Preparations
with Joanne from Nella

Mole
negro at Frida
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Now
Pilar is the consummate professional, too classy to allow
me to voice my thoughts to the organizers. And besides, she
accomplished what she had set out to do experience
a highly competitive fishbowl type of culinary environment
with the public and media watching her every stir and taste,
showcase Oaxaca, and enjoy.
As a former litigator, Im perhaps overly sensitive to
rules being followed, impropriety, and the appearance of bias.
The competition was tainted, at least for those of us who
knew the rules and that they had been broken. For the public
and perhaps most media, Louisiana won fair and square. Its
the public whose interests are most important from the perspective,
I would suggest, of the organizers of the Harbourfront events.
But people came out to see Mexico do well, and Pilar did not
disappoint. She drew the crowd. There were almost twice as
many in the audience for Pilars semi-final (some had
to watch on a monitor from outside the main event hall), than
for the Louisiana chefs final the following day. Organizers
should take note. The Mexican Consul and at least one staff
member were in attendance at Pilars performance, as
were other Mexicans, including chefs eager to show their support.
Its unfortunate they may never know what was very conceivably,
an uncomfortable truth.
Lead-up to the events
With a chef like Pilar, availability of ingredients is not
the end of the story. Are they the quality she requires; will
they be available and fresh when she needs them; are they
organic; have the tortillas been frozen, and can they be purchased
in blue and red as well; fresh masa; does dried hierba santa
take too much away from a recipe calling for fresh or frozen?
Several attendances at Chinatown and Kensington Market, and
a visit to the upscale St. Lawrence Market, were not negotiable.
And of course this meant that the provisional menus to some
extent remained as such until only a couple of days before
each event.
The Toronto Star invited Pilar to its test kitchen to prepare
mole amarillo and verde. The Star will not publish a recipe
unless each and every ingredient is locally available. Pilars
concern was securing the green leafy herbs for the verde,
but as it turned out, the dry hierba santa did do the trick,
and everything else was available fresh. A page-long spread
on September 16th, stands as testament of ingredient availability:
Click
here to read the article.
Repeated phone calls, emails, and attendances to and with
the chefs and administration of each establishment were ongoing
right up until Pilars final performance the evening
of September 29th, at The Chefs House, the restaurant
and hands-on teaching facility of George Brown Colleges
Institute of Culinary Arts.
Arrangements had previously been made for longtime friend,
Enrique Jiménez of Mezcal del Amigo notoriety, to give
Pilar as many bottles of each type of mezcal blanco,
reposado and añejo as she wanted. Then Ontarios
Woolwich Diary, known for its goat and feta cheeses, offered
to provide each venue with unlimited product. The range of
recipes in Pilars arsenal increased. And the generosity
of these two enhanced the ability of each restaurant and culinary
institute to bolster its bottom line.
The events, and more of the media
Its beyond the scope of this essay to review each dinner
prepared at the diversity of venues. However, the range included:
teaching at the two Nella Cucina events, and working with
Chef Li and his team of chefs and students of the hospitality
industry at George Brown College; Frank Restaurant, the 120
seat high end dining room of the Art Gallery of Ontario (featuring
guest artist Gabriela Campos while lives in Ontario and spends
part of each year in Oaxaca); Veritas Local Fare; working
alongside fellow Mexicans Luis Valenzuela at Torito Tapas
Bar and Pepe at Frida; and finally, Pilars solo efforts
at private dinner parties in the kitchens of Mary Luz, and
of Lee Baker of Oakville, Ontario.
To this writer the dinner at Frank gets the highest grade,
echoed by the critique on September 22nd, in the Womens
Post by Cathy Riches of the Toronto Tourism Board:
Starting with one of the best margaritas Ive ever
had (sorry Mexico!), the six-course meal unfolded delightfully,
moving from botanas (Mexicos version of tapas) of silken
scallop ceviche, incredibly fresh salsa de mango and guacamole,
to kebabs of grilled shrimp the size of a babys fist,
sublime salad, creamy corn soup, and chicken breast stuffed
with mushrooms and poblano chiles. As with any fine meal,
its the details and subtle touches that raise it above
the mundane. So, a scattering of tart pomegranate seeds contrasted
beautifully with the sweet richness of the corn soup and delicate,
crispy fried tortilla threads and chile pasilla added crunch
and fire to the salad. The artful blend of typical Mexican
ingredients with local ones like Woolwich Dairy goat cheese
was also a welcome touch.
But it was the review of Sheryl Kirby of TasteTO.com, after
her experience at Frida on September 16th, which set the tone
for the tour and was likely instrumental in ensuring that
each and every evening event was completely sold out:
the sheer brilliance of Cabreras 30-ingredient
authentic Oaxacan mole will likely remain one of the highlights
of my food writing career.
As a result of the careful and skilled orchestration of Sizzling
Communications, media were either at each public event, or
attempting to ply Pilar away from her engagements so as to
obtain interviews for radio, television, newspaper and magazine,
and blogs. Newspaper coverage included the Toronto Sun noting
Pilars tour ahead of Bill Clintons much-touted
talk to Torontonians; The Toronto Star giving her more press
than George Clooneys participation in the Toronto International
Film Festival; and an article about her tour in City Bites,
a magazine insert of The Globe and Mail.
While at Nella, Pilar was interview by Sarah Elton for a radio
piece about huitlacoche, a delicacy derived from corn mold,
which aired on CBC Radios Here and Now on September
23rd, and by Food Network Canadas Erin Jackson, who
recounted her exhilarating experience in taking a class from
the master herself: Click
here
to read the blog.
Pilar was also interviewed over bagels and cream cheese for
breakfast at Jewish style restaurant favorite United Bakers
Dairy Restaurant, by Good Food Revelations Malcolm Jolley
(http://www.goodfoodrev.com/0111/pilar.htm). Additional coverage
was provided through Slow Food Toronto, Ontario Culinary Tourism
Alliance, and on websites such as Tripadvisor, Mexico My-Space
and Mexconnect.
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